Devil Dog Travel

A brief note from the Devil Dog

2009-07-09T20:20:00.000-07:00

Hey there, its July the 9th and we seem to have fallen into a worm hole. Last you saw the Devil Dog was in Bolinas, along the Marin Coast. That adventure continued to Mankas Inverness Lodge along the shores of Tomales Bay. Then we spent four days in Sonoma and Napa visiting the finest vineyards in California. After that we went to Roswell, New Mexico for the UFO festival and the Jefferson Starship concert. Now we aer getting ready to head off to Puerto Vallarta for four days.

The point is we have been busy, and fallen a bit behind in our Devil Dog Narrative. Sometimes internet connections were spotty, other times pictures weren't immediately ready. Whatever the cause, we will be visiting these recent backlogged adventures ad nauseum in posts to come, skipping time frame and telling our story as only the Devil Dog can, one entree at a time. Sorry for the open space. We'll be filling it soon.

Roadside vegetable stand, Bolinas

2009-06-30T16:26:00.001-07:00

Stinson Beach and the secret town of Bolinas

2009-06-28T12:10:00.001-07:00

Marin County Coast

2009-06-22T08:40:00.002-07:00

Pelican Inn, Muir Beach, Marin County

2009-06-22T08:40:00.001-07:00

Marin County Headlands

2009-06-22T08:39:00.000-07:00

Is there a more glorious sight than the Golden Gate Bridge as seen from Marin County headlands, looking down on the towers and the City of San Francisco beyond.
The Marin Headlands are just off the 101 on the far side of theGolden Gate and stretch into the unspoiled territory we see all around us. This national park is a priceless treasure whose views have inspired a thousand hearts......some of them left.....high on a hill....and calling...

Cavallo Point, under the Golden Gate Bridge

2009-06-19T08:31:00.000-07:00

Original Ocean Lodges, Post Ranch Inn

2009-06-18T06:52:00.000-07:00

The Ocean lodges at Post Ranch Inn capture the character and beauty of the Post Ranch Inn concept, incredible lodging in a completely integrated natural environment.

Here we see the grass roofed units that were the hallmark of this amazing property. Looking down from the top of the first unit we feel as if we are sitting in the prairie grass looking across the ridgetop at how luxury and natural beauty can be a transcendent experience. Thank you Post Ranch Inn for an exceptional two days of sheer delirious joy and serenity.

14th Wedding Anniversary Dinner at Sierra Mar, Post Ranch Inn

2009-06-18T06:39:00.000-07:00

The Devil Dog celebrated his 14th wedding anniversary with his lovely wife Alison at the always spectacular Sierra Mar. This exceptional restaurant is the centerpiece of the Post Ranch Inn property, a masterpiece of design and function by architect Mickey Muennig.

With sweeping panoramic views of the property and the ocean, Sierra Mar offers a prix fixe dinner of four courses that is as innovative as it is amazing. A selection of ahi and kampachi tartares is complemented by a fantastic curry mussel soup, and a trio of guinea hen preparations is as sumptuous as it is delicious. The wine list is simply something to die for. We have a Stony Hill '91 chardonnay that was a beautiful amber color with incredible Burgundian complexity, and follow it up with a Rochioli Riverblock single vineyard 2002 chardonnay.

The evening swims by in decadent splendor. The Devil Dog and his lovely bride retire to their cliffside paradise in the Pacific Suite and continue the celebration....

Sunset at Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur

2009-06-17T15:22:00.001-07:00

The sunset our first night was brilliant, like an orange fireball in the sky descending in streaming colors into a fog bank on the horizon. The Devil Dog never tires of a beautiful sunset, and has rarely seen a more beautiful sight than the sun descending into the ocean at Big Sur.

The Pacific Suite Post Ranch Inn

2009-06-17T14:55:00.000-07:00

The Devil Dog has stayed in the finest hotels of the world and has never experienced anything like the Pacific Suite here at Post Ranch inn. The superlatives of location, view, calm, beauty and the stunning emotional impact of the overall experience are without peer. Here then is the Pacific Suite. We are on the lower level in this two unit building, and while the balcony of the upper unit is sweet, the Devil Dog particularly enjoys being able to walkout of my expansive sliding glass doors onto my amazing patio and walk right up to the edge of the cliff.
Here my lovely wife Alison sits on the patio in the reflected glory of this magical place. I have been at the Post Ranch Inn several times, and it has always been superlative, but they have taken themselves to new heights with these additional suites. For if a man can stand on the edge of the precipice, as seen below, and stare into the wonder and the glory of the Big Sur coastland, then surely he has found a place that captures all the joy that life has to give.

View from our room Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur

2009-06-17T14:47:00.000-07:00

Our room, the new Pacific Suite, sits on a ridge on the opposite end of Sierra Mar restaurant, and has absolutely without question the most sweeping views on the property.
Its not enough that the view is so spectacular but that it is right outside my door, I can walk to the edge of the patioo and stare down into the abyss. We are literally on the cliffs edge, and the view of Point Sur is a spectacle even more ludicrously delightful to enjoy than it looks in these pictures. Then we look down, as seen below, and stare into the abyss at the splendor of the ocean sprading out before us in unparraled glory.

View of the Mountains from Post Ranch Inn

2009-06-17T08:19:00.001-07:00

The Post Ranch Inn may sit on an incredible ridgeline overlooking the Pacific Ocean, 1200 feet below, but it also faces an incredible mountain range with equally impressive views.
Big Sur is a stunning wilderness area, with natural beauty unlike anywhere I have ever seen. The Post Ranch has been an integral part of the community and a 5 star world class resort since the day it opened. But nothing prepares you for the simply astonishing views once you are actually there, and nothing can replace the feeling one gets when you walk the grounds.

Post Ranch Inn

2009-06-17T07:01:00.001-07:00

We have arrived at the legendary Post Ranch Inn, a retreat of unimaginable beauty perched on the ridgetop of the most beautiful part of Big Sur, looking down over Point Sur and the Pacific Ocean some 1200 feet below. Originally designed by architect and Big Sur native Mickey Muennig, Post Ranch Inn has recently undergone a selective expansion, with 10 more units built on a ridge on the other side of the acclaimed restaurant Sierra Mar. We are staying in one of those units, the magnificent Pacific Suite, a cliffside wonderland perched on the edge of the sky. Those are three of the new units seen on the ridgetop above, as always at Post Ranch, blended into the natural environment to appear unobtrusive amongst the spectacular scenary.

But oh what views. The Devil Dog has been many fine places, but NEVER EVER has had as beautiful a room with as glorious a view as this. Here is the lovely Alison Reynolds on the back porch of our room, surrounded by wildflowers, as the golden sun begins its descent.

Tonight we will have dinner at Sierra Mar, one of the great fine dining experiences you will ever have. Here is the restaurant as seen from the front entrance. We will explore Post Ranch in all its glory over the next two days. Indulge...and enjoy.

Sunset in San Simeon

2009-06-16T09:02:00.001-07:00

And so day one of our California coastal chatauqua comes to a close as the sun goes down over Moonstone Beach. The sky is a brilliant red and the glow flys off the ocean surface.
The Devil Dog never tires of the beauty of the central coast. Cambria, San Simeon, and of course, nearby Hearst Castle are simply beautiful, like an eternal oasis of calm and stunning scenery.

Robins Restaurant

2009-06-16T08:48:00.000-07:00

Robins Restaurant in Cambria is an absolute gem, an eclectic restaurant with fabulous food, a beautiful location and consistently excellent choices of exceptional healthy ingrediants put together with style and panache. Situated in a converted house, as seen in the interior shot above, Robins also has a busy spacious open air patio (with an awning covering for inclement weather).
The Devil Dog and his lovely wife have eaten here multiple times over the years, and never tire of their imaginative and delicious offerings. Mussels and clams in a garlic lemongrass broth is simply amazing. Lamb curry is sensational. Goat cheese raviolis with kalamata olives is beautifully done. Dishes with influences from India to Thailand are a delightful hallmark of their menu choices.
Alison and I are celebrating our 14th wedding anniversary and her birthday during this week. We can NEVER come to Cambria and NOT go to Robin's. It simply isn't done.

Cambria Headlands

2009-06-16T08:21:00.001-07:00

On our way to dinner we drove thru the pines of Cambria and came upon this beautiful park in the headlands on a bluff overlooking the ocean. The Devil Dog loves the central coast. Its unspoiled beauty and amazing air are a tonic for the senses, and a joy to behold. In the picture below internationally acclaimed photographer Alison Reynolds ( and the love of the Devil Dogs life) takes a picture with the wildflowers behind her.

Best Western Cavelier Oceanfront Resort in San Simeon

2009-06-16T08:00:00.001-07:00

The Devil Dog is on the road, on a ten day trip up the California coast thru Big Sur to the Marin County Coast and the Wine Country of Napa and Sonoma. We are here in San Simeon, just outside of Cambria, in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. We are staying at the greatest seaside bargain of the century...the Best Western Cavalier Oceanside Resort. This is a typical coastal hotel except for one thing....one wing of rooms RIGHT ON THE BLUFF OVER THE OCEAN. We have the second floor balcony, room 274, but in reality rooms 273 - 278 are all plum locations. The picture above is the view outside our balcony. Enough said.

Live Blogging - The California Coast

2009-06-15T09:06:00.000-07:00

Today starts a new epic in the Devil Dog Travel blog. We begin a nine day trip up the coast of California, through San Simeon and the wonders of Big Sur, on the the coastal hideaways of Marin County, north of San Francisco...and on into the wine country of Sonoma and Napa.

Along the way we will be blogging semi-live, in real time, as we go. The trip will include the usual array of amazing hotels, exquisite restaurants, and sights and sounds of a wondrous nature in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Join the Devil Dog as we cruise up the California coast over the next 10 days. First up....San Simeon and Moonstone Beach.

Au Revoir Hotel Du Cap

2009-06-15T09:03:00.003-07:00

And so we bid adieu to the south of France, to La Colombe d'Or, to Chateau St.Martin, and Tourrettes sur Loup, and ofcourse, to the magnificent Hotel du Cap Eden Rock. The Devil Dog never tires of France, and looks forward to his return. Soon.....oh very soon!!!

Les Terraillers

2009-06-15T08:53:00.001-07:00

Dinner on our last night in France at the end of an amazing trip was at the spectacular Michelin starred restaurant Les Terraillers, located in a former pottery factory just outside the walls of the medieval town of Biot. Amongst other charming details, Biot was where Mick Jagger and Bianca had a house during the tumultuous recording of the Rolling Stones Exile on Main Street. But the Devil Dog digresses.
Les Terraillers is a revelation, a spectacular restaurant with style and grace. A family affair celebrating 31 years of gastronomic perfection, head chef Michael Fulci has taken the reins from his parents, Pierre and Chantal, to prove that the Michelin apple never falls far from the tree. A truffle filled zuchini blossom, as seen above, is flawless, and lobster with a curry bisque is exceptional, but is only a warm up act for the Veal cutlest and broiled sweetbreads. With just 14 tables, Les Terraillers is a triumph of Haute Cuisine and impeccable surroundings.

Renoirs last house...Cagne Sur Mer

2009-06-15T06:40:00.001-07:00

On our last day in the south of France we visited the tiny village of Cagne Sur Mer, and then went to the last home Renoir lived in before he died in 1919. Renoir was increasingly enfeebled by rhumatoid arthritis, and in the last years of his life had to have the brush planted into his claw like grip. In spite of these challenges, his painting did not suffer, and he remained prolific until the end. In this house you can see his studio, exactly as it was when he painted in it 90 years ago. In fact the house and grounds are remarkably intact, a living breathing reminder of a simpler life in the times of an artists we still revere today. The olive trees on the property, as seen below, are hundreds of years old.

Breakfast on the patio at Hotel du Cap

2009-06-14T23:23:00.001-07:00

On our second morning at Hotel du Cap we took breakfast on the sweeping patio on the back deck of the grand Chateau, looking down on the rolling lawns leading to the sea. There were fellow guests, as we see in the photo above (can't have EVERY hotel to ourselves) and a remarkable sense of calm and ease as the morning air wafted with indelible freshness between the taste of crisp bacon and yet another cup of coffee on a morning that seemed to be suspended in eternity.

Bacon, the restaurant for Bouillabaisse

2009-06-13T09:33:00.001-07:00

The restaurant Bacon is an institution in Cap d'Antibe. Run by the Sordello family for more than 50 years, this Michelin starred restaurant is widely known as the final word in bouilabaisse, the definitive fish soup that is a staple of the Riviera.

Of course, along with the bouillabaisse comes the giant pink aprons, which are a necesary delight and quite the fashion statement. Bacon is wonderful, upscale, and quite relaxed, with excellent service. We start with crisply sauteed rd mullets, a cerviche of sar ( a type of sea bream....and then the bouillabaise arrives in all its glory. The Devil Dog is satiated.

Sunset on the Riviera

2009-06-11T10:26:00.001-07:00

As we prepared for dinner we looked out across the Mediterranean as the sun set on the Riviera. The brilliance of color and light in the south of France has been a magnet for artists for generations.
Here the sun gleams off a turbulent sea before descending behind the hills above Cannes near the perfume capital of Grasse. If you look carefully at these pictures you can see two fishermen on the end of the rocky promentory, framed against an azure sky in the midst of celestial glory.

The Grand Chateau, Hotel du Cap Eden Roc

2009-06-09T21:50:00.001-07:00

Set as it is on 26 acres of the most spectacular seaside real estate in Cap d'Antibe, the Hotel du Cap Eden Roc inspires a sense of awestruck wonder as you walk the grounds.
Here we see several looks at the main Chateau as seen from different angles on the property, as seen from the garden and spa area above, or as seen from the lawn below.
The main building dates from 1870, and the Devil Dog is told that until very recently the only thing Hotel du Cap accepted was cash....no checks....no credit cards...CASH. It was quite an amusing idea that until just a couple years ago, guests would arrive with briefcases full of cash, especially during the Canne Film Festival. The very idea that credit cards were only accepted several years ago leaves me slightly awestruck at the sheer aristocracy of it all.

Eden Roc Hotel, Hotel du Cap as seen from the sea

2009-06-08T09:38:00.001-07:00

As we discussed earlier, the Eden Roc Hotel is the seaside appendage of the world renowned Hotel du Cap, and which, as you can see above, sits right on the Mediterranean, and houses the restaurant, bar and swimming pool for Hotel du Cap, as well as numerous seaside suites and hotel rooms. The Devil Dog was thrilled with the accommodations, and would point out his room in the photo below as being the last balcony on the right hand side on the top floor. With the sea pounding on the rocks below and a drink in our hand on the balcony we had arrived at that place on the French Riviera where all our dreams of sumptuous existence had come true.

A happy girl at Hotel du Cap

2009-06-07T12:03:00.000-07:00

Gentlemen, if you want to make your girl happy, get her a seaside balcony room at Hotel du Cap and drink in the reward as she steps onto the balcony and absorbs the splendor of the sea and the air and the view of the south of France in all its glory. The Devil Dog had a very happy girl indeed.

View from our room, Hotel du Cap, Cap d'Antibe

2009-06-06T12:00:00.000-07:00

So we check in to the distinguished Hotel du Cap, and they drive us in the concierge golf cart down to their seaside appendage, Eden Roc Hotel, where we are staying in a magnificent suite on the top floor overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Looking out at the view from our very private balcony we see the swimming pool and the rocky coast abutting the rest of the property with a luxurious seaside mansion in the distance.

Looking across the bay that is Cannes in the distance, and just below us the boat dock where launches land in the summer months. The sea is a bit wilder today, with waves crashing against the shore. Later in the season it is more bucolic, with a calm sea making for a water sports swimming hole paradise here at the seaside at Hotel du Cap Eden Roc.

Indeed, just below our room, beneath the open patio where lunch and afternoon cocktails are served, is the diving board and swimming area that is used with abandon in calmer seas.

The Devil Dog is fond of many water activities, and would have gladly leaped from the diving board (above) into more prescient waters. Suffice to say the view from our room was spectacular, an abode in the very heart of the Riviera, taking the memories of a few short days with us for an eternity.

The entrance to Hotel du Cap

2009-06-04T13:29:00.001-07:00

Cap d'Antibe can only be described as the Beverly Hills and Bel Air of the south of France rolled into one. A lovely peninsula of brilliantly expensive homes and mansions, in the midst of this stands the legendary Hotel du Cap. Here we see the front entrance to the main Chateau. The Devil Dog and his lovely bride spent three splendid days here soaking in the sheer opulence of this timeless palace of serene pleasure by the sea. Everyone has their cross to bear.

Hotel du Cap Eden Roc

2009-06-02T16:55:00.001-07:00

And so we arrive at the legendary Hotel du Cap Eden Roc, the most glamorous seriously upscale pleasure palace on the Riviera, the unofficial residence of most of the movie stars who attend the Cannes Film Festival, and an outpost of sophisticated charm and luxury that has no peer in reputation or effect.

Hotel du Cap stands like a baroque palace on the shores of Cap d'Antibe, set on 26 immaculate acres that give new meaning to opulent serenity.

Here we see the main Chateau of the hotel as seen from the pathway down to the seaside. Since 1870 the Hotel du Cap has been synonymous with the ultimate in Riviera luxury. This grand dame of hotels has played host to Picasso, Peggy Guggenheim, the Prince of Wales, Greta Garbo and the crowned heads of Europe. The Devil Dog is duly impressed.
For it is truly a magnificent property and a fabulous hotel. The main building, seen above, is but the half of it. A separate building, overlooking the ocean, houses the Eden Roc hotel part of Hotel du Cap Eden Roc. We shall take a look at that in later posts.

Last look at the Private Villas at Chateau St. Martin

2009-06-01T22:55:00.001-07:00

At long last it is time to come down from the hilltop, to descend from the mountains and see what the Riviera, the beach, the Mediterranean Sea is like in the south of France...but first, a last longing glance at the uber exclusive private villas at Chateau St. Martin. It is in these villas that Brad and Angelina stayed for the Cannes Film Festival several years ago, and where Elizabeth Taylor stayed many years before that. Both got to Cannes itself via helicopter, which lands on its own helicoptor pad at the hotel. The Devil Dog is impressed, as he should be.

Stephane Furlon...La Litote's Master Chef

2009-05-31T09:05:00.000-07:00

Look carefully. This is the image of a one man band playing Mozart with precision and fluidity. Stephane Furlan is proof that great things can come in small packages,or that great food can come from small restaurants with a tiny kitchen. Here we see him at work in his zone of authority. The Devil Dog asked him when he can expect his Michelin star. He laughed and said, "Michelin star...with this kitchen....oh no....I would need a saucier, a desert chef, and several thousand more square feet". Then he laughed again, and went back to work. I guess the point is that he serves Michelin star gourmet meals with flair and inventiveness with what he has. Imagine what he could do with a larger restaurant. Until that day comes, whenever I am within 50 miles of Vence I will be making the return trip to La Litote. Great restaurants are hard enough to find. Exceptional boutique establishments like La Litote are priceless.

Restaurant La Litote in the old city of Vence

2009-05-30T08:43:00.000-07:00

Of all the amazing meals we had on this trip, and I mean all of them, one of the best was right here at this little bistro on a quiet cobbled street in the old city of Vence, La Litote, where owner and head chef Stephane Furlon has created a fabulous, if tiny enclave of innovative cuisine.

We had a romantic table in the stone walled room, and the meal that followed was nothing short of spectacular. Foie Gras with mango chutney was ridicuously good. Lobster salad with bean sprouts and beat sauce was extremely fresh and innovative. Black tagiolini with unshelled braised prawns was nothing short of a masterpiece. And all of this coming out of a tiny kitchen where Chef Furlon is a hands on multitalented artist.

La Litote is in a beautiful building, with a lovely second floor dining area with an ancient wood beamed ceiling. The Devil Dog thrives on authentic charm, and La Litote fits the bill in many ways. A small out of the way restaurant with an owner chef serves up spectacular cooking with quality on a scale that demands recognition. It is very popular with the locals, at lunch ( as seen below) and dinner. La Litote is the kind of restaurant it is worth going out of your way to discover and explore.

Galerie Regards in the old city of Vence

2009-05-29T09:05:00.000-07:00

Along the cobble stone streets within the old city of Vence stands the Galerie Regards, the art gallery of Caroline Hauptman, a former retoucher at the Louvre who has pursued her art with florid style and grace at this beautiful corner of Vence. The Devil Dog is always in search of the artist, the genuine article, a person who stands alone to display their passion with clarity and precision, tempestuousness and fierce confident determination. We find it in many places and we found it at Galerie Regards with Caroline. Thats her and my wife Alison below standing in her 800 year old stone studio and gallery.

We wandered into her shop and were pleased to discover that it was an art studio as well as a gallerie, for there she was in the act of painting, surrounded by her other works in various stages of completion, and full of the vitality and active engagement that displays a person on fire inside. Below is her workspace in the middle of the shop, her working canvas surrounded by paints and the furbishments of her trade. Caroline was a delight and a talented artist that speaks to a growing community of regional artists practicing their craft because they are driven to do so.

Tourrettes Sur Loup at dusk

2009-05-28T09:19:00.000-07:00

But before we proceed into Vence lets take one last look at Tourrettes Sur Loup, seen above on a brilliant day as the sun was beginning to go down, long shadows casting their way down the rocky cliffside. The Devil Dog never tires of the tiny villages and towns spread across the valleys and hilltops throughout the south of France.

The ancient city of Vence as seen from Chateau St. Martin

2009-05-27T11:04:00.000-07:00

The ancient walled old city center of Vence, dating back thousands of years, forms a perfect oval as seen from the patio deck of Chateau St.Martin. As we shall see, this labyrinth of streets has restaurants , galleries and shops in a lovely setting. Vence is a genuine working class town, very un-touristy, but fascinating for for its glimpse into the genuine character and life of the average French citizen. Here below we get a different angle on the centre of Vence, yet still captivating, and ready to explore.

Bright eyed and bushy tailed at breakfast

2009-05-26T08:09:00.003-07:00

It was early in the season so we found we had much of the Chateau St. Martin to ourselves, which gave us the feeling of our own fully staffed mansion at our disposal. Breakfast is served here in this magnificent room. In the back you can see the portal for the omelet chef to take your individual requests.

If it can be believed this is the semi-formal dining room. The views stretch endlessly to the Mediterranean Sea. The atmosphere at breakfast is one of complete serenity, casual elegance that is timeless in its essence. Breakfast is an elegiac experience suspended in an almost timeless moment that is over all too soon.

Breakfast, like so much about Cheateau St. Martin, is truly like something out of fantasyland. Sitting in a wide open space with incredible views, exceptional personalized service, made to order omelets and specialties, it has the air of wandering into the sanctuary of your own mansion.

We were none the worse for wear after a great evening, bright eyed and bushy tailed with a side order of bleary. The day lies ahead. We go forth to the city of Vence below.

A glass of Chambertin

2009-05-24T09:25:00.001-07:00

So if you are going to wear a white tuxedo jacket and eat in a 5 star restaurant at a world class resorts in the hills above the south of France, then you might as well drink a Chambertin Grand Cru from Cote de Beaune. With amazing food, an incredible wine list, fabulous service, and the shear serenity of the surroundings, dinner at Chatesu St. Martin is an out of body experience, made all the more so with several glasses of fine wine.

Dressed to the Nines

2009-05-20T07:44:00.001-07:00

Dinner at Chateau St. Martin is a dress up affair, and rightly so. Master Chef Yannick Franques, fresh from several years at the Hotel Bristol in Paris, brings new meaning to fine dining. Foie Gras with an artichoke sauce is a revelation, and the risotto, is like something form a dream with mascarpone cheeses and a touch of anise. The room is beautiful, with stunning views of the Mediterranean coast. Service is singularly attentive and fabulous. The Devil Dog loves a great mealin sumptuous surroundings. He found it at Chateau St. Martin.

The Bar at Chateau St.Martin

2009-05-16T11:27:00.000-07:00

After a day of tooling around the French countryside we return to Chateau St. Martin, put on our finest clothes and prepare for dinner in their fine dining restaurant. But first a cocktail. The Devil Dog has always been one to respect tradition, so in this case a late afternoon martini (Bombay Sapphire with olives and onions, served up, shaken, not stirred) hits the spot before a triumphant dinner. The bar at Chateau St.Martin is something to behold, with rich dark woods, sumptuous tapestries and an air of classic indulgence. Ah.....life in the hills above the Riviera.

View from my balcony, Chateau St. Martin

2009-05-14T22:47:00.001-07:00

And so there we stand on the balcony of the Devil Dogs stunning suite at Chateau St.Martin, looking down across the back patio (where lunch is served in the summer) at the sweeping majesty of the rolling hills around the ancient city of Vence, and the Riviera below stretching out to Cap d'Antibe and Canne in the distance. The Devil Dog could not have been more impressed with the hotel after having had lunch here in the summer of 1995, and admiring it for a dozen years or more, only to experience its full glory for three days of sublime exhaltation.

Private Hillside Villas at Chateau St. Martin

2009-05-12T23:14:00.000-07:00

So finally, here they are, the private hillside bungalows of Chateau St. Martin, the exotic villas of the celebrated, set on the rising slopes of Baou de Blanc. It was here that Elizabeth Taylor stayed, here that Brangelina encamped during Canne several years back, flying in and out of the hotel to the festival location by helicopter. The Devil Dog was impressed by the phenomenal views and sumptuous accommodations of the villas, altho he was equally enthralled with his own amazing suite in the body of the main hotel.

Front Entrance of Chateau St Martin

2009-05-11T20:43:00.000-07:00

It looms above the city of Vence, framed by Baou de Blanc, a fortress in the sky, that you reach along a winding rode leading up into the hills, and then you turn into the driveway, and the imposing castle on the steep mountainside is a startling oasis of luxury and intimate refinement. It is Chateau St. Martin, an almost mystical experience that the Devil Dog considers on of the truly great resort hotels, whose front entrance we see below at the end of a garden path.

Knights Templar ruins at dawn

2009-05-10T10:52:00.001-07:00

So the Devil Dog rose at dawn to walk the grounds of Chateau St Martin and capture the morning sun glinting thru the ruins that date back to the 12th century.
In the background above this spectacular wall you can see some of the private cottages that dot the hillside above the hotel. Below is a stark reminder of the power these grounds convey, all while housing a spectacular 5 star resort hotel.

Knights Templar ruins of Chateau St. Martin

2009-05-09T20:57:00.001-07:00

Here we see how the outer wall of the ruins from the Knights Templar is a framework that blends seamlessly with the main buildings of Chateau St Martin. The tower you see in the photo below is the backside of the room next to ours from the earlier posting. The ruins stand out against the morning sun and a stunning blue sky.

Chateau St Martin seen from above

2009-05-04T22:55:00.001-07:00

As imposing and brilliant as Chateau St. Martin may look from below, and it does, it is equally amazing when seen from above, with a sweeping view of the buildings and grounds, as seen from a series of very exclusive cottages, essentially private bungalows, spread out on the hillside above the main hotel. It is from here that we took these pictures of the chateau.

A former castle of the Knights Templar, the ruins of the older structures are intertwined with the superstructure of the rest of the hotel. Chateau St Martin is as tranquil and exotic as it is imposing and otherworldly. A grove of olive trees hundreds of years old graces the grounds leading up to the private cottages.

The View from Chateau St. Martin

2009-05-01T17:07:00.001-07:00

High above the countryside of the Riviera, with captivating views stretching to the Mediterranean, Chateau St. Martin is like a mountaintop redoubt...indeed that is exactly what it was for hundreds of years, a fortress on a hill for the Knights Templar. In these pictures we se the mansions and fine houses that fill the hills just below Chateau St. Martin, with Canne and Cap d'Antibe there in the distance.

Back in LA

2009-04-29T19:26:00.000-07:00

The Devil Dog took a brief sabbatical to Washington DC to see his family. While there I spent the week getting my mothers kitchen renovated with new granite countertops and porcelain tile floors. We picked out our granite slab and the specific tile, selected a new kitchen sink and faucet, took bids from 6 contractors to install the floor, selected one (an Italian stoneworker), and the day I left they started installing. I learned the joy of a riding lawnmower as I cut the grass at my mothers second home in Richmond, where we also visited my 94 year old Aunt Mildred in the nursing home. It is the joy of family that is irreplaceable. Even the Devil Dog has a mother.

Now I am back in LA and the return to what passes for normalcy. We now resume our regular broadcast. Now where were we....oh yes....it was the south of France.

On Orthodox Easter - The Arches of the Abbey de Fontenay

2009-04-19T09:01:00.003-07:00

On this Orthodox Easter, though it was not an orthodox monastery, but rather a Cisterian one, the Abbey de Fontenay speaks through the ages to deliver a timeless message of beauty and truth. We often forget how the Christian religion has splintered over the years, with the Orthodox and Roman Catholic split descending into Protestants, who divided into Lutherans, and Baptists and Presbyterians and , and yet in the process of divergence we should not loose sight of the commonality of all religions, and the inner peace they seek as we chart our paths through a perilously uncertain world.

We may not all agree on the spiritual underpinnings of our various beliefs, but we can all agree on the legacy of art and architecture, of culture and stability that has been left to us over the centuries. Such as the Abbey de Fontenay with its spectacular setting, stunningly beautiful architecture, and its endless use of arches and form to convey the universal belief in beauty, truth, and spiritual understanding.

So from the hallways of St Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, to the churches of ancient Constantinoploe (now Istanbul) to the darkened corners of the Armenian and Greek Orthodox Churches in Jerusalem (indisputably the oldest branches of the Christian church) we say Happy Easter from the other side of the ecumenical gap, confident in the knowledge that we are all fellow travelers under one sun, on one planet, with one universal truth: Love thy neighbor as thyself.

Chateau St. Martin- Palace in the Sky

2009-04-17T11:21:00.000-07:00

So we are ready to enjoy the splendor and joy of the incredible Chateau St. Martin, one of the great, stellar retreats in the south of France. The Devil Dog is no stranger to luxurious surroundings, but there is little that compare to this incredible resort at the base of Baou de Blanc. A castle of the Knights Templar in the middle ages, Chateau St. Martin today is as magnificent a resort as I have ever stayed in.

In the picture below, on the second floor with the balconies, is the amazing room we stayed in. Spacious, impeccable, sumptuously appointed with sweeping views of the Riviera below, we settled in for an intimate three days of splendor. Immediately next door, in the tower to the right of the photo, is a lovely three story suite. Sumptuous indeed.

Courtyard Tourists in Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-15T09:34:00.001-07:00

At the end of our journey through Tourrettes sur Loup we reached the main square again and saw these Canadian tourists sitting in front of the large church auditorium.

This old stone structure is perhaps 800 years old and is still in use on a daily basis. The Devil Dog was struck by the timeless quality of their moment of repose, a couple of fellow travelers in rustic surroundings enjoying the tranquility of a moment in time.

Happy Easter

2009-04-12T15:25:00.000-07:00

On Easter Sunday we take a moment to look at some of the churches and cathedrals we have seen on our travels over the last several years. The Devil Dog is always enthralled at the diversity of churches both here and abroad, and the sense of wonder they convey in this, the modern age. While traveling in Europe I frequently pause to reflect how these stunning buildings must have seemed to the peasants of 400 and 600 and 800 years ago. Above is one of several such cathedrals in Troyes.

This beautiful little church sits on the shores of Kona in Hawaii, proving that the provenance of the church does not reside in the massive structure but also in the simplicity of timeless beauty.
And yet the grand cathedrals of Europe, like the Cathedral at Reims above, are the crown jewels of the architecture of western culture. Below is another of the cathedrals in Troyes.

On this Easter Sunday the Devil Dog wishes all of you the peace of the ages and the hope for a beautiful future.

Interior of a flat in Tourettes sur Loup

2009-04-11T10:17:00.001-07:00

So it turns out that Hans Bloom, retired international airline pilot and resident of Tourrettes sur Loup in the south of France, has quite the medieval 14th century restored apartement on the second floor of an 800 year old townhouse built into the cliff walls of the village as it sits overlooking a ravine on three sides. And the Devil Dog is quick to notice that Hans, good hearted soul that he is, is fond of lanterns, lots of them. It looks like an advertsiement for Gorton Seafood on his ceiling. Now I love lanterns as much as the next man, and can appreciate a repetitive motif, but I must admit it added a slightly quirky flavor to what was an already spectacular setting.

I mean check out the beams in the ceiling of the sitting area in the upper potion of the living room. The front of the house was a large entree room, with the high ceilings (and the lanterns) with a step up to the sitting area, a surprisingly big kitchen in the interior and a spacious bedroom and bathroom tucked away on the other side of the front entreeway, sort of an extended L shaped apartment. Off the large living room was a fabulous, and well used balcony with incredible views of the surrounding hills and the valley below, like floating above a city in a cloud.
Hans is a friendly sort, kind of the unofficial village greeter. The Devil Dog welcomed the chance to se his apartment, to get a look at the inside of one of these amazing homes, and to see how the transplanted European that has come to embrace the south of France, where ever they may hail from, is adjusting to life in a medieval town on top of a hill. Rather well, from the looks of it.

The Villager

2009-04-10T11:22:00.001-07:00

In the beautiful mountainside village of Tourrettes sur Loup, the Devil Dog made acquaintance with a certain Hans Bloom, a former international airline pilot and transplant from Sweden.

Hans was standing in the street as we were taking our walking tour and we struck up a conversation. He invited us to see his flat, on the second floor of a 14th century building. We eagerly accepted the invitation, extremely curious to see one of these dwellings from the inside. As luck would have it we had taken a picture of his apartment earlier that day from across the ravine. Thats his balcony on the second floor of the building just left of the centre in the picture above, the middle floor of the three story building with balconies on the first two floors.

This is the cul de sac where a staircase (not seen in this pictrue) leads to the entrance to his apartment.

And here is Hans Bloom, wandering villager, former airline pilot, and lover of beer, here in his apartment, which is apparently decorated with wayfarer fisherman lanterns. Hans has a firm grip on my lovely wife Alison.

Here the two of us share a laugh during our visit. The apartment was comfortable and somewhat small, but with beautiful wood beams and an incredible view out the balcony. We will take a closer look in the next post.

Cliffside Manor in Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-09T07:42:00.001-07:00

As we are coming up the far side of the path that leads back up from the bottom of the village to the main square we come upon a lookout facing west with a chance to view the the cliffside manors of this side of the village.

The Devil Dog is never shy about exploring, and the wonder of these lovely homes sitting here with these amazing views for the last 800 years is enough to put the zap on the head of the most sanguine individual. In the two pictures above we see how the houses and their balconies literally make up the exterior wall of the village, overlooking the abyss below. In the picture below we look slightly north to see the mountains looming above the village. In the south of France there are many astounding beautiful medieval villages, but none that I have found with the air of suspended disbelief, the sheer fairy tale quality of Tourrettes sur Loup.

Medieval homes and streets Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-08T08:04:00.001-07:00

It is the astonishment of living in the modern age in pristine surroundings of a 14th century home that makes Tourrettes sur Loup so fascinating. Here, in the picture above, is the gateway that leads under the village perimeter at its low point to the scenic outlook above the valley that spreads out below on three sides. Above the gateway sits part of a beautiful home with an astounding view.

Here is another restored home dating from the 14th century somewhere in the middle of the village. The Devil Dog was enthralled with what they must look like inside. We shall see what transpired in that regard in several more columns. Suffice to say for the moment that the entire village has been largely restored in its interiors to impeccable modern conditions while maintaining the flavor of medieval existance in its exteriors and its interior beams.

As we mentioned, in strolling through the village there is a main sidewalk/trail/pathway/street that takes you literally from the top to the bottom of the village and back to the main square in one circumventing route, allowing a complete tour of all aspects of the village, from shop to homes to scenic look outs, in one penetrating hour or two of exploring. Here below is a look at that pathway as we are coming up from the bottom of the village.
Even the building that seem dilapidated are still fabulous, like the one in the picture below. Tourrettes sur Loup has a distinction and charm that makes it stand out like a flawless gem in a whole area of ancient villages that are diamonds in their own right.

House of golden stone Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-07T08:17:00.001-07:00

There at the bottom of Tourrettes sur Loup, where the village path comes to an apex at the scenic lookout, if you turn around and look back at the village, there is the house we see above, golden stone and an invincible location, a courtyard and a towering three story structure with a tree blooming in shades of fiery yellow.
The home is probably 700 years old, the interior is restored, the exterior is amazing, the location is astounding, and the views....the views are a wonder of perfection. There are several thousand lucky inhabitants of Tourettes sur Loup, many of them locals, many who have lived there much of their life, and then there are many who have found this place, from all over Europe, and made it their home.

The Devil Dog is a simple man with extravagant dreams and a wild streak. But if anywhere would be a perfect location to settle down and while away the afternoons sipping coffee and painting watercolors, or writing that book so often pondered, it would be here, in Tourrettes sur Loup, on the balcony of this house, overlooking this valley, under the yellow plumes of this tree. A Devil Dog can dream, can't he.

The view across the valley at Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-06T10:32:00.000-07:00

Standing on the precipice at the bottom of Tourrettes sur Loup, the Devil Dog looks east across the valley at this lovely house on the top of the opposing cliff. A closer look, below reveals just how quaint, and precarious, the positioning of this home is.
Then gazing south we see the full valley below, bisected by the aging aqueduct that stands like a grand ornamental trellis across the lower valley.

At the bottom of the trail at Tourrettes Sur Loup

2009-04-05T16:45:00.000-07:00

At the bottom of the path thru the village of Tourrettes sur Loup you come to a small overlook at a tiny park on the other side of thep village walls. Looking back you see the beautiful stone ramparts of the houses that make up the endpoint of the village, overlooking the valley.

The outposts of serenity are family dwellings of immeasurable beauty, with views that are unmatchable, a reminder of the pace of life thru the centuries that has remained unchanged, and that blends with 21st century life more easily than one might imagine.

Wandering thru Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-04T10:32:00.001-07:00

There are many aspects of what makes Tourrettes sur Loup so special. Above you see the main street leading its way in a complete circle thru the village. At the top of the village are a series of shops, an art studio, a ceramic pottery workshop, and numerous tiny businesses.

As you work your way down the businesses give way to house after house of beautiful stone work, lining the edges of the cliffside with amazing views and filling the center with the quaint architecture of perfectly restored 14th century homes.

Tourrettes sur Loup

2009-04-03T10:11:00.001-07:00

On the road back road between Grasse and Vence is the stunning town of Tourrettes sur Loup, an impeccable hidden gem perched like a crouching animal on an isthmus jutting out from the mountainside, giving way on three sides to a steep cliff, and at the lower endpoint of the village a trail leads down to the valley below. The medieval village itself is amazing, with an easy to follow walking path that takes you throughout the entire village, from the main square on top to the lowest point at the overlook into the valley, and then back up the other side to the main square.
A 14th century village that is home to shops, craftsmen, and a wide variety of residents, locals and transplants, Tourrettes sur Loup has a charm and authenticity that cries out for you to simply hang out, relax, enjoy, wander, and appreciate. The Devil Dog has seen many charming medieval villages but none has struck him with the power and beauty of Touresttes sur Loup, literally the lair of the wolf, as it emerges like a vision in the sky, a village virtually suspended in mid air.

First glimpse of Chateau St. Martin

2009-04-02T09:30:00.001-07:00

High above the city of Vence, framed perfectly by the great stone edifice of a mountain, Baou de Blanc, sits the majestic Chateau St. Martin, an elegent spa in the most regal of definitions, and a mountaintop retreat of impecable luxury, all on the site of a medieval Knights Templer ruin. The Devil Dog first encountered it on his honeymoon, and had lunch there, a surreal visitation to the coming adventure, for I dreamed of staying there from that day forth, and more than a dozen years later the Devil Dog and his lovely bride are going to grace its halls, dine in its restaurants, and soak up the high mountain Mediterranean air. But for now it is that mystical apparition in the sky, a palace on a mountaintop, a dominating presence on a perch high above the Riviera, with a perfect view of the old oval shaped walled city at the interior of the busy authentically French town of Vence.

Photographer in Paradise

2009-04-01T21:09:00.000-07:00

Stalwart travel companion and wife extraordinaire, photographer Alison Reynolds is also wildly fanatical about her art, her fine art, and her photography, for which she has been published in multiple newspapers for numerous travel features, so La Colombe d'Or was a paradise for her, like living in a wildly bohemian museum, and she took to photographing the grounds and the art and the structure and the art, and the atmosphere, and the art with the joy of one who holds a passion for it all. So naturally it won't be long before, in her thoroughnesss, she turns the camera on you, as you see below. The Devil Dog has had the pleasure of being captured in her lens on many an occasion, and has always looked the better for it.

Wooden beamed ceilings at La Colombe d'Or

2009-03-24T13:14:00.001-07:00

One of the many amazing things about La Colombe d'Or is the multiple extraordinary beamed ceilings that lend the homespun peasant chateau atmosphere to room after room, including here above, the ceiling in the open sitting room on the third floor solarium with the wall of windows making this a perfect sun room. Then below is the arched wooden beams of the breakfast nook off the firepit area of the main dining room on the ground floor. This patio area overlooks the swimming pool, and is a frequent gathering point in the late morning over coffee, eggs and newspapers.

Church tower at dawn...St Paul de Vence

2009-03-23T22:30:00.000-07:00

At the crown of St Paul de Vence, at its highest point, is the church and the bell tower. We found our way to its foot and shot these pictures of the bell tower against the blue sky. The brilliant white stone tower is the signature structure in St Paul, its bells pealing across the village, marking each hour, and echoing in the valley below.
The sanctuary is timeless, simple, and quietly astonishing, a pristine time chamber to the antiquity of the church, and a living parish at the center of a priceless location. Then its back the way we came, down the cobbled pathway seen below, a maze of tiny streets that wind and twist in the empty beauty of the early morning, where even the dewey fresh smell of the morning air is a distinct mood elevator that the Devil Dog, ever attentive, relishes in.

A hidden town house in St Paul de Vence

2009-03-22T22:30:00.000-07:00

That same morning, as we wandered the back alleys and slighted patheways thru nooks and corners of St Paul de Vence, we stumbled upon this magnificant home, a compound behind iron gates of ageless wonder, the morning light streaming across its golden stone in that glorious glow of dawns momentary wonder. The Devil Dog is no stranger to the finery of house and hearth, but the placement of such a place at the heart of all the beauty and meticulous splendor around it caught him at the moment, and it makes him smile to think that it is there still, exactly as we see it here....waiting.....for our return.

Morning light...St Paul de Vence

2009-03-19T21:42:00.001-07:00

The sun comes up across the ridegetop on the other side of the valley beneath St. Paul de Vence and the elegantly fabulous hotel La Colombe d'Or. Here, in the picture above, the Devil Dog watches the sunrise through the windows of the open sitting room on the third floor veranda overlooking the pool and the multicolored roof tiles, steam rising from a chimney vent in the golden glow of the morning sun.

So we wander into town at dawns early light, passing the high walls of the ramparts of the ancient medieval Roman hilltop town of St Paul de Vence, here at their razors edge, while the morning sun blazes behind its portholes.
And the village is deserted, morning sounds of quietude filling the ambient abundance. Along the walls and back alleys and then down the long central narrow street that is the arterial flow of St Paul de Vence. Towards the end of that street we see the view looking past the Hotel St.Paul, the alley twisting to an end point, an apex, then a ridgetop cemetery and the valley below.

The steps of the church in St Paul de Vence

2009-03-18T06:43:00.000-07:00

Speaking of my beautiful wife, here she is on the steps of the church in the middle of St Paul de Vence, whose bell tower is seen in all panoramic shots at the very top of the village. The Devil Dog and his wife, the renowned photographer Alison Reynolds, have traipsed the world together, and yet we always return to the south of France, drawn to its abundant character, pristine medieval villages, fabulous atmosphere, and as we see here, the simple charms of an ancient church in a tiny village.

Breakfast on the sunlit patio at La Colombe d'Or

2009-03-17T14:33:00.001-07:00

So the sun was rising, flooding the patio with the golden glow of the morning. The Devil Dog is lucky enough to be married to the brilliant photographer Alison Reynolds, whose work has graced many of my newspaper feature articles, and who more importantly is the brilliant zenith at the center of my life and the glowing joy at the heart of the essense of beauty, a fiery partner in life whose passion burns as brilliantly today as it did 20 years ago when we met or 14 yearsago when we were married. There is no more beautiful moment than the one you have shared in the brilliance of the morning sun in the south of France. Here is that moment.

Portrait of a village come to life - St Paul de Vence

2009-03-16T11:15:00.001-07:00

And then the buses arrive, the shops open and the village comes to life. The Devil Dog never tired of walking the streets of St Paul de Vence whether abandoned or teeming with life. One main street, a widened alley really, traverses the whole of the village from point to point, where most of the shops are located, and half an alley over two more parrallel pathways are purely residential, mystical, and providential, a living breathing organism from 2000 years ago, resurrected in the flesh at fulcrum of culture and antiquity., with quiet homes and ancient cul de sacs where St Paul de Vence truly lives.

Hotel St. Paul....a Relais Aux Chateau retreat

2009-03-15T10:08:00.000-07:00

La Colombe d'Or is not the only luxury hotel in St Paul de Vence. At one end of the village is the lovely and sumptuous Hotel St.Paul, a superb luxury hotel with amazing views, a fabulous Michellin starred restaurant, and a terrific romantic getaway. In fact, on the Devil Dogs honeymoon, long before he was a travel writer, he and his lovely wife came to St. Paul de Vence as part of our month long sojourn from Paris to Rome and couldn't get in to La Colombe d'Or (it was booked solid), so we stayed at Hotel St. Paul for two nights. I'm happy to report that it is still just as lovely as it was 14 years ago, the restaurant is still superb, and in the summer, dinner on the open patio is a virtually religous experience, especially when they wheel out the fromage cart amidst the twinkling lights and the cool summer wind, our mind set on delight, our sense on overdrive, all enhanced by a fine bottle of wine.

Quaint 400 year old homes in St Paul de Vence

2009-03-11T07:03:00.001-07:00

There's a sense of wonder as we meander through alleyways and tiny streets past wondrous very old homes in St.Paul de Vence. Its a feeling of immersion into a time long past that has somehow survived into the modern age, that we are free to experience and ponder. Like what, the Devil Dog ponders, would it be like to live in the house above, a solitary two story sentinel at the intersection of three divergent streets.

The wonder of St Paul de Vence is how the ancient village has been reinvented as an arts center, with lovely shops,and fine art, and craftsm,en, and a thriving community, and yet never loses the feel of a tiny mountaintop village. Like the charming 400 year old house above, an elegant corner of the past come to life with brilliance and charm......indeleble charm...incalculably affecting....and joy affirming.

The narrow streets of St Paul de Vence

2009-03-10T22:54:00.001-07:00

St Paul de Vence is a village on the crown of a hill, a ridgetop really, with medieval walls, tiny pathways that pass for streets, and an incredible sense of ease and ancient flow to the place, in spite of it being a raging tourist destination in the summer.

The Devil Dog and his beautiful wife took to the streets as the sun was rising and snapped these pictures of the narrow streets and lovely stone houses that fill this village like a French Acropolis at the summit of the hill.

Second floor four room suite at La Colombe d'Or

2009-03-09T22:58:00.000-07:00

Imagine a four room suite extending all the way across one wing of the second floor of La Colombe d'Or. From our bedroom window, as seen in an earlier post, we could watch the sun rise over the valley and illuminate the outdoor patio, and look out over the main square and the Boulle court from the other window.

Thick wooden beams give a 16th century feel to the ceilings, while the large living room gives way to a sitting area, an elevated armoir area , and then a sumptuous bedroom chamber. The Devil Dog was more than impressed. His wife was even more blown away. It was like an apartment instead of a hotel room, richly appointed with beautiful works of art, not hotel room art, but real works of collectable art every bit as impressive as what hangs in the bar and the dining rooms.

Here we see the bed chamber and beautiful beamed ceiling. La Colombe d'Or is more like a gathering place for old friends in need of relaxation in genuine unique luxury that is defined as the beauty of the moment all around you.

The Cemetery at St Paul de Vence

2009-03-04T22:30:00.000-08:00

St Paul de Vence is a fortified medieval town at the crown of a ridge top. At the far end of the town, on a promontory that comes to a point, sits the village cemetery, neat rows of tombs and mausoleums that has been the final resting place for local families for hundreds of years.

The Fire Pit

2009-03-02T20:11:00.001-08:00

On the other side of the dining room at La Colombe d'Or is what the Devil Dog dubbed the fire pit, a comfortable couch area around a detached fireplace. On the walls surrounding the room are, naturally, a plethora of fine art by some of the leading creative geniuses of the 20th century, casually on display with a panache that bespeaks the unique character of this magical place.

Here in this corner are a trio of works that could be hanging in the Met or the MOMA in New York.

Boulle...Pentanque....

2009-03-01T09:54:00.000-08:00

What the game is called depends on where you are from. Boulle or Pentanque, either way it is the same game. And on the main square of St Paul de Vence, in sight of my window at the Colombe d'Or, every afternoon the men of the village gather for several hours of this wonderful communal game as the sun fades from the sky. These men are town character, an unchanging array of faces and wizened smiles as they ply their steel balls towards their target, acknowledging each others luck and brilliance with shrugs and heated discussion

And this is how the main square where the ritual takes place looks from the Devil Dogs hotel window at La Colombe d'Or. The rythym of a village is often found on its courts where Boulle...or Pentanque...continues each day...unabated...whether I am there or not.

More Art

2009-02-28T16:59:00.001-08:00

Yes that is a scupture of a thumb holding down the corner of the front patio at La Colombe d'Or. Below is one of a dozen or so Calders that adorn the premises, this one a lovely small mobile hanging from the landing on the main staircase between the first and second floor.

So much of the art is both whimsical and magnificent, a sea change representing the growth of modern art in its prime.

And always is the ghost of Picasso, who spent so much time here. And who left, among others, this magnificent work of art which holds the central spot of the dining room.

Morning as seen from my window at La Colombe d'Or

2009-02-27T16:01:00.000-08:00

So we rise with the dawn and open the windows of our corner suite on the second floor of the lovely romantic and splendidly exotic La Colombe d'Or. The sun spills over the ridgetop across the valley. Golden time. That eirilly beautiful glint of sunlight at its intense peak of golden color, splaying all in its path in the silent glory of the dawn. Above is the patio, the valley just below. Below is the look out the other corner window, into the main square and the empty Boulle court, a delivery van making the morning supply run to the boullangerie across the street.

The Bar at La Colombe d"Or

2009-02-26T07:33:00.000-08:00

The famed bar at La Colombe d'Or is a haven for guests and a gateway to a time when Picasso would sit for hours with Leger or David Niven would share a drink with Yves Montand. The Devil Dog is enthralled with the simple glory of the place. Above a local denizen kicks off the early evening after an afternoon playing Boulle or Pentanque on the main square. Below it fills with guests and an eclectic crowd waiting for dinner.

The Dining Room at La Colombe d"or

2009-02-24T17:41:00.000-08:00

The dining room at La Colombe d'Or is both an elegant dinner spot as well as one of the coolest art galleries on the planet. The Devil Dog has never seen such a collection of work made even more astonishing by the common denominator...they were all given to the hotel by the artists in gratitude for lodging or friendship. So there, in the photo above, is a fabulous Picasso,and next to it is a Braque, and over there is a Leger,or a Miro, or a Calder mobile. And then there are the "lesser" works that are as astonishing as the wall hangings by the masters.

The room itself is stunning, with a massive wooden arch bisecting the main dining area, as seen in the picture above, stylish furnishings, and a general air of quiet sophistication. Then there is the food, which is fabulous, not terribly fancy, very provincial, but more like an upscale peasant menu served on fine china, or classic country fare meets chateaubriand. Below is a view of the room from the other side of the arch, and if course the art...the art....which is EVERYWHERE!

The Golden Dove palace of art

2009-02-21T10:57:00.001-08:00

La Colombe d'Or means literally the Golden Dove, and many years after they had opened their doors, the great sculptor Ben Jakober created this massive marble dove which sits on the wall outside the Devil Dogs bedroom window on the great wall separating the hotel from the street, overlooking the patrons on the open air luncheon patio below.

Heres a better look at that Calder by the swimming pool and next to the sun chairs is this famous sculpture of a green apple. The great artists of the day gave their art to Paul and "Titine", frequently, the legend goes, in exchange for their lodgings. But genuinely it was because they actually cared for the world that had been created there, felt omfortable there, hung out there ,and freely gave it to the hotel out of love. And it is everywhere. Each hotel room and suite has more impeccable art than many people have in their entire collection. www.la-colombe-dor.com

La Colombe d'Or

2009-02-20T23:29:00.001-08:00

On the edge of St Paul de Vence is the legendary hotel La Columbe d'Or, a bastion of bohemian pride and abstract elegance that has defined the cutting edge of life on the Riviera since the 1920's. A small hotel with 16 rooms and 10 suites, it was a favorite retreat for Picasso, Leger, Calder and a plethora of distinguished artists who stayed here and communed with the original owners Paul Roux and his wife Baptistine. Yves Montand lived across the street, and soon the international jet set of the 50's and 60's were hanging in the tiny bar, including David Niven and Elizabeth Taylor. Over the years it has hosted everyone from Mick Jagger to David Bowie. But its not about the celebrity. Its about the atmosphere. Paul and "Titine", as his wife was known, created an atmosphere of creative energy that shielded the outside world. The walls are adorned with incredible works of art, Calder mobiles adorn the stairway and the swimming pool, Picasso and Braque and Miro and Klee line the walls of the dining room. It is sumptuous, unpretentious, fabulous and a true joy to stay there.

The Devil Dog spent four nights there is a stunning 4 room suite overlooking the Boulle court, filling a good portion of the second floor. The picture at top is La Columbe d'Or as seen from the street (our room on the second floor corner). The picture just above is the back of the hotel taken from the swimming pool. See the open terrace on the third floor. Its a common area sun room where you can sit and ruminate surrounded by magnificent art.

Now run by their grandson Francois Roux and his wife Danielle it continues to provide down home country charm and casual elegance with an atmosphere that literally breathes electricity.

Below we see another view of the back of the hotel and notice the massive Calder mobile installed by the pool. To say that we thought we had found a secret home away from care or causation is an understatement. La Columbe d'Or rates as one of the Devil Dogs all time great hotel experiences. www.la-colombe-dor.com

St Paul de Vence

2009-02-19T15:49:00.000-08:00

In the south of France,in the hillos above Cap d'Antibe, lies the ancient Roman walled village of St Paul de Vence, literally rising over medieval walls to crown a hilltop. Last year the Devil Dog spent an extraordinary 10 days in the south of France, and the first four were spent in this magical village at the legendary Hotel Le Columbe d'Or. St Paul de Vence has long been an artists colony, and today is a wildly popular tourist destination. Yet in spite of its rather busy modern existence it maintains an air of charm and elegent authenticity that makes it a special place, especially when you are staying there and the tourists have left at the end of the afternoon. Then it is a quaint little village with two steller hotels and an open lawn where the men gather and play Boulle. At the crown of the village is the bell tower of the church, whose peels are heard throughout the town at the top of the hour.

The Devil Dog must thank Katherine Johnstone and the good people at Maison de la France for making arrangements that guided the Devil Dog on this sojourn to the Riviera. Join me for the next dozen or so columns as we relive that fabulous adventure.

100% Kona Coffee

2009-02-18T10:19:00.003-08:00

100% Kona Coffee. Thats all we ask. The Devil Dog, as you have seen, is passionate on the subject, and so are the Kona Coffee farmers. We have spent a goodly ammount of time holding forth on the multiple amazing coffee farms hand crafting a superior product. Malia Bolton and her friend were kind enough to serve as models for our slogan (thats her friend above, and Malia in the two pictures below). The guy in the picture below happens to run Buddhas Cup and Imagine brand coffee farms across the road from Malia's "Malia Ohana" award winning farm. Together they are the new rising faces that will be around Kona Coffee for some time to come.

But its all about quality and supporting individual farmers who grow market and sell their own estate coffees, the boutique coffee chateaus of Honaunau, Captain Cook, Kealekekua and Holualoa, signified by their awards in the Gevalia Cup competition, and a coffee that can be found no where else. The Devil Dog salutes them and encourages you to order their coffee over the internet. And remember, like Malia says....make sure its 100% Kona.

The Pink Palace of Holualoa

2009-02-16T11:26:00.001-08:00

Not everything in Hawaii is glamorous, but whole swaths of it are still authentic. There is little more authentic than the pink palace of Holualoa, the charming Kona Hotel, a landmark that beckons back to an age on the Big island when there were no "resorts", when the Kona Inn downtown was the fanciest hotel in town, and the plans landed on what is now the baseball diamond near the wharf, and you could only get to Kona Village by boat, and Holualoa was a sleepy town filled with Japanese families working the land. Then the pink palace, as the Devil Dog likes to call it, was the only game in town, an essential way station on the high road to Holuloa.

Today, as you can see, it is still filled with locals, perhaps less busy as a hotel (altho it still is a working functioning hotel) and it certainly harkens back to a simpler age, when local hotels run by families were the norm and mega resorts were the non existent exception. Now the Devil Dog loves his mega resorts as much as the next guy, but you can't help but be charmed by the genuine relic that remains the pink palace of Holualoa.

Kona Coffee and Tea Co.

2009-02-14T13:28:00.001-08:00

Dan Bolton is one of the most interesting men in Kona. Successful, irreverant, down to earth, driven, and a hell of a nice guy, he is happily married to his wife and partner in all things Jan, and they are also the owners of Kona Coffee and Tea Co. with over 100 acres of coffee growing on their ranch of several thousand acres high above, and I mean high above Holualoa. Dan is no slouch when it comes to quality, for Kona Coffee and Tea Co won the Gevalia Cup in 2003. Did I mention that his daughter Malia won second place in the Gevalia Cup last year for her organic 8 acre Malia Ohana Ranch, and also helps her dad run the Kona Coffee and Tea Co empire.

Thats Dan above and Jan just below. Their ranch is something to behold. Malia took me for a tour and as we rode high up the mountain, through several gates and onto a dirt road past herds of sheep I knew this was a special place. Then we get to the ranch house, a two story structure, southern plantation meets hawaiian ranch house, with a wide outside patio supported by a colonade of local hardwood trees. This is living in paradise, back to the roots on a ranch worthy of the name.

But the essence is the coffee, 100 acres plus and with plans for expansion. Dan is self contained, processing his own cherry, and acting as a big player in the Kona Coffee market while maintaining a home spun persona.

And did I mention the sheep. They are everywhere. Below is a gaggle of the critters prancing across an open meadow high up in the hills. Talk about free range.

Then of course there is Malia, as lovely as she is smart, and a rising star of the future in Kona Coffee. This is no dilitante daughter of a well to do man. Malia works her ass off, on her farm and for her dad. She knows her coffee and knows her business, and no job is too small to recieve her full attention. Thats her below flashing the Shakka sign as she drives the open jeep across the ranch land on our tour.

Kona Coffee and Tea Co can be found on the internet at www.konacoffeeandtea.com or by phone at 808 329 6577.

The Hat Lady

2009-02-13T09:18:00.001-08:00

There is a lot of local arts and crafts on display and for sale at the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival events, including this woman at the Cupping competition who made and sold hats with a lifetime of skill and precision on display.

Here she weaves another hat, a process that takes her about 4 hours. One of the charms of Kona is the preservation of hand skills and artistry that thrives with support in a culture of Aloha.

Images of the Coffee Cupping

2009-02-06T22:09:00.001-08:00

The Gevalia Cup competition and the whole Kona Coffee Cultural festival is a throwback to a community celebration that we sometimes think has been lost in America, like neighborhood Fourth of July celebrations (instead of centralized pyrotechnic extravaganza's). At its core it is genuine, fascinating, widely diverse, remarkably grass roots, with a touch of kitsch thrown in, all wrapped in sincerity as it promotes the worlds greatest coffee in the worlds most serene location. So they even have a Miss Kona Coffee and runners up, complete with crowns and sashes, who are constant ambassadors throughout the weeks events. Above they stand in fascination as one of the judges explains the judging process to them.

The Gevalia Cup event takes place at the Ourigger Keauhou Beach Hotel on an open lanai overlooking the ocean, casually elegent but deadly serious. A local group of musicians performs beautifully intricate Hawaiian melodies of impressive measure, the lead singer employing the signature falsetto in the high notes of classic Hawaiian song.

Over the rainbow....somewhere

2009-02-02T21:29:00.001-08:00

Somewhere....over the rainbow....skies are blue. Nowhere is that truer than Hawaii, and nowhere on the planet has more rainbows on a given day. If there is it would astound me, for on any given day in Hawaii you look to the mountains and there is a rainbow in the mist....or a sunset to behold. Above is one such sunset, taken from the grounds of the Shearton Keauhou Bay Resort Hotel. Situated at the end of an ancient lava flow, just yards from the birthplace of Kamehameha III, the Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort is a rainbow of deluxe accommodation in a perfect location. Below is a shot of the waves crashing into a lava tube on the property.

The Hula stylings of Miss Kona Coffee

2009-02-01T09:12:00.000-08:00

Hula lives. Thats right. Hula isn't just for tourists, and is a serious part of the reawakening of Hawaiian culture in the islands. Still its a touch exotic, and always a lot of fun, especially when it erupts spontaneously, (like last year in remote Hana, Maui, at a popular steakhouse, when a male member of the audience jumped up and performed a very masculine, intricate Hula with the band playing Hawaiian music.)

But at the end of the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival, in a big outdoor tent on the lawn of the Outrigger Keauhou Bay Resort, Miss Kona Coffee got up at the end of the program and performed a graceful and quite lovely Hula, without ever disturbing her sash or crown.

The return of Francois deLay du Pompideau

2009-01-30T14:19:00.001-08:00

The Devil Dog got a call the other day from none other than Francois deLay du Pompideau, racanteur extraordinaire, and wing man for the ages when trundling across the vineyards of France. You may know him better as travel writer Kent St John of Gonomad.com and the author of the international blogfest "Be Our Guest".

Thats Francois above peddling through the vineyards of Burgandy just south of Beaune on the way to Puligny Montrachet. Thats him below at Chateau Bligny amongst the rest of our intrepid group as we sampled champagne from one of only two official Champagne Chateau in France.

He has just returned from the Great Barrier Reef and Queensland Australia which must have been epic in its wonder. Then he had a previously scheduled bout of surgery for skin cancer, and though he looked like the Phantom of the Opera in his post operative wrappings, Francois De Lay is a ruggedly handsome man who will bounce back soon and return to the feathered liberties of the road less traveled. (Thats us in the picture below). So heres to you Francois. A man of character and courage, wit and wisdom, and a good friend.

Terry Fitzgerald's charmed life

2009-01-26T21:03:00.000-08:00

Terry Fitzgerald has long been one of the Devil Dogs favorite people in Kona, if not on the planet. Terry is one of the original coffee pioneers, leasing four acres of rain forest in Honaunau in 1971 and restoring an overgrown coffee plantation, turned it into idyllic, award winning coffee farm that was one of the earliest single vineyard estate coffees. He won the Gevalia Cup, as we have noted, in 1997, and more than that, he embodies the free spirited hippy types (tho he has always been more Kerouac than hippy), who restored Kona Coffee. Terry's house is largely built of Koa planking, especially the floors, and he has long lived the part of the wise avuncular man on the mountain. But a few years ago Terry met Susie in China, and they married, and she came to Hawaii, where they had their beautiful son Sonny. Now I have known Terry a long time but I have never seen him as happy as in his current domestic bliss, and Susie is as cool as she is amazing, but it is Sunny who has transformed the plantation in the sky where they live. Thats Terry and Susie and Sonny in the picture above.

The Da Kine Coffee Farm is a wonderland, of course, for a little boy, and all the neighbors know and adore Sonny. In the picture above we see Sonny leading the way down a path between two swaths of coffee trees, Terry close behind. In a way of life that hasn't changed in decades, and in a place that is the very definition of unspoiled heaven, Terry has a life that few could imagine. But he works hard too, and Da Kine Coffee remains one of the great Kona Coffee farms, if not the touchstone for those who appreciate the heritage of the individualistic coffee farmer. Thats Terry at the table off his kitchen in the photo below, a man who as much as anyone else has taken his piece of Hawaii and made it emblematic of all that life would hope to be.

Big Island Beaches

2009-01-25T22:12:00.000-08:00

The Devil Dog is always enthralled with the beaches of Hawaii and never more so than at two spots on the Big Island north of Kona that capture the imagination. Above is the perfect crescent shaped beach at the Mauna Kea Resort Hotel in Kohala, one the earliest of the notable pioneering resorts in Hawaii, built in 1965 by Lawrence Rockefeller. It happens to sit on one of the most beautiful beaches the Devil Dog has ever seen, which I'm sure was part of the plan. The Mauna Kea has always been the most beautifully located, and architecturally distinct of the large resorts on the Big Island. Damaged in the Big Island earthquake two years ago it has just now reopened after a complete renovation and upgrading of facilities, but with the same beautiful style and sense of wonder that it has always had.

Key to that sense is the beach, a gently arching crescent of sand on a natural bay with gently sloping sandy bottoms and lovely shorebreak perfect for body surfing, but with enough depth for longer rides. In all of Hawaii the beach at the Mauna Kea is one of my favorites, as much for the beauty of the place itself, as for the fabulous shorebreak and body surfing extravaganzas when the surf is up.

Meanwhile, further south at the Four Seasons Hualalai, their resort fronts a lovely white sand, man made beach, where the real action is offshore. 100 yards or more out, when the Kona swell is rumbling and the surf is up, the waters off the Four Seasons is a rocking local surf spot, as attested to in the photo above. On this day 3 to 5 foot waves come in all afternoon in beautiful sets that were snapped up and ridden like kids at a carnival. In the picture above a lone surfer rides a wave all the way across its tubular break while another picture perfect wave comes in behind it.

Inauguration Day

2009-01-20T09:40:00.001-08:00

So two million people turned out on the Washington Mall for the inauguration of Barack Obama, while billions watched around the globe. The sense of possibility and renewal is inescapable, as is the tangible feeling of the dawning of a new era. Washington was frigid but the atmosphere was electric. These pictures of the Capitol and the Washington Monument were taken last summer for an article for New York Newsday.

The Devil Dog knows a lot of people who may have not voted for our new president, and who have found themselves grumbling under their breath at the chorus of "change" they see all around them. To them I say take heart, embrace the new era and the vitality of our democracy, give the new President the chance to be a vessel that takes the country to a new and better place. Politics does not mean the requirement to disrespect the process of democracy. Politics demands that we accept the new face of Washington and be proud of the history we have made and the example it sets around the world.

Martin Luther King

2009-01-19T11:58:00.001-08:00

Martin Luther King Day this year clearly took on an extra deeper meaning with the inauguration of President Barack Obama one day later, and on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial where Dr. Kings immortal I Have A Dream speech was given in 1963 hundreds of thousands of citizens turned up on a blisteringly cold day for the free public concert celebrating President Obama, with performances by Bruce Springsteen, U2 and numerous other acts.

These pictures were taken last summer at the Lincoln Memorial while the weather was MUCH better. But the Devil Dog salutes Dr. King and the unmistakable fulfillment of one aspect of his dream. It is forgotten now that Dr. King was only 38 when he was assassinated. Sometimes its hard to remember how far we have come as a country since that turbulent year. 1968 saw riots, revolution, and the murder of Robert Kennedy, a raging war in Vietnam, and a youth culture on the ascendency. It has been a seminal achievement in this election year that it seems like the possibilities of the future we envisioned in 1968 have finally found root in our new President.

I certainly hope so.

Back in LA

2009-01-17T10:46:00.001-08:00

The Devil Dog is back in Los Angeles after a whirlwind week in Washington DC. The excitement in the city as we build to inauguration day is palpable, and the monuments of this Acropolis on the Potomac are aglow at night in preparation for the crowds to come.

But in Los Angeles the Devil Dog retires to his zen compound in Sherman Oaks, the principle features in which are the two endless fountains that mark the front and back yards.

Above is the view of the golden urn fountain from just inside the front gate, and below is the blue green obelisk fountain in the midst of the Garden Bar. The compound is a place to refresh and restore the batteries, to write and repose before the next undiluted journey that lies ahead.

Happy Birthday Mom

2009-01-13T06:51:00.000-08:00

The Devil Dog is in Washington DC to celebrate his mother's 90th birthday.

Along with all the other beautiful qualities she has, Mom is responsible for the Devil Dog becoming a travel writer. In the summer of 2005 Mom wanted to go on a European River Cruise from Budapest to Amsterdam, and couldn't find anyone to go with her. (She was then a spry 86). When she was going to cancel her trip, the Devil Dog volunteered and, knowing it would be a great travel article, queried 18 newspapers and magazines and newspapers and was turned down by 17 of them.

One man, Richard Slusser, travel editor at The Washington Times said yes. The trip was amazing, a true adventure, 15 days on the Rhine, Meine and Danube Rivers, spectacular scenary, fairy tale castles, tiny villages, beautiful towns, Cologne, Nurnburg, Vienna, Durnstein, and Budapest, among others. After that article was published (Sept 25, 2005) the Devil Dog did 17 more pieces for The Washington Times. I also took mom on subsequent adventures, a cruise among the Fjords of Norway, from Oslo to Bergen to Kirkines well above the artic circle; a two week tour of the castles of England with my wife, her mother and my mother (the Mums Tour we called it); and last year a Mississippi River Paddleboat Cruise from Memphis to New Orleans.

As my travel writing career has blossomed, with pieces in numerous other newspapers (and upcoming articles in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, Austin American Statesman, and the Honolulu Advertiser) I have never forgotten how it all began.

Thanks Mom, and Happy Birthday.

King Kalakaua's Beach House

2009-01-08T07:21:00.001-08:00

David Kalakaua was King of the Hawaiian Islands from 1874 to 1891, and was known as the Merry Monarch for his colorful enjoyment of the finer things in life. He had a very contentious reign, where the struggles between native Hawaiian culture and the encroachments of the Western powers (the United States and United Kingdom mainly) were an ongoing undercurrent culminating in the overthrow of his successor, Queen Liliokalani (who wrote Aloha Oe in protest of her imprisonment in Iolani Palace, bemoaning the loss of Hawaiian independence) and annexation by the United States in 1898.

But in happier times King Kalakaua used to come to Kona and relax at this beach house, which sits on the grounds of what is today the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort, and is very close to the birthplace of Kamehameha III. Unassuming by modern standards, it is interesting to think of the Hawaiian King in the glory of his reign spending many a relaxing day fishing or on the beach before coming back to his royal bungalow by the sea. The Devil Dog delights at the thought.