More Art

Yes that is a scupture of a thumb holding down the corner of the front patio at La Colombe d'Or. Below is one of a dozen or so Calders that adorn the premises, this one a lovely small mobile hanging from the landing on the main staircase between the first and second floor.

So much of the art is both whimsical and magnificent, a sea change representing the growth of modern art in its prime.

And always is the ghost of Picasso, who spent so much time here.  And who left, among others, this magnificent work of art which holds the central spot of the dining room.

Morning as seen from my window at La Colombe d'Or

So we rise with the dawn and open the windows of our corner suite on the second floor of the lovely romantic and splendidly exotic La Colombe d'Or.  The sun spills over the ridgetop across the valley. Golden time. That eirilly beautiful glint of sunlight at its intense peak of golden color, splaying all in its path in the silent glory of the dawn.  Above is the patio, the valley just below.  Below is the look out the other corner window, into the main square and the empty Boulle court, a delivery van making the morning supply run to the boullangerie across the street.

The Bar at La Colombe d"Or

The famed bar at La Colombe d'Or is a haven for guests and a gateway to a time when Picasso would sit for hours with Leger or David Niven would share a drink with Yves Montand.  The Devil Dog is enthralled with the simple glory of the place. Above a local denizen kicks off the early evening after an afternoon playing Boulle or Pentanque on the main square. Below it fills with guests and an eclectic crowd waiting for dinner.

The Dining Room at La Colombe d"or

The dining room at La Colombe d'Or is both an elegant dinner spot as well as one of the coolest art galleries on the planet. The Devil Dog has never seen such a collection of work made even more astonishing by the common denominator...they were all given to the hotel by the artists in gratitude for lodging or friendship.  So there, in the photo above, is a fabulous Picasso,and next to it is a Braque, and over there is a Leger,or a Miro, or a Calder mobile. And then there are the "lesser" works that are as astonishing as the wall hangings by the masters.

The  room itself is stunning, with a massive wooden arch bisecting the main dining area, as seen in the picture above, stylish furnishings, and a general air of quiet sophistication. Then there is the food, which is fabulous, not terribly fancy, very provincial, but more like an upscale peasant menu served on fine china, or classic country fare meets chateaubriand.  Below is a view of the room from the other side of the arch, and if course the art...the art....which is EVERYWHERE!

The Golden Dove palace of art

La Colombe d'Or means literally the Golden Dove, and many years after they had opened their doors, the great sculptor Ben Jakober created this massive marble dove which sits on the wall outside the Devil Dogs bedroom window on the great wall separating the hotel from the street, overlooking the patrons on the open air luncheon patio below.

Heres  a better look at that Calder by the swimming pool and next to the sun chairs is this famous sculpture of a green apple. The great artists of the day gave their art to Paul and "Titine", frequently, the legend goes, in exchange for their lodgings. But genuinely it was because they actually cared for the world that had been created there, felt omfortable there, hung out there ,and freely gave it to the hotel out of love. And it is everywhere. Each hotel room and suite has more impeccable art than many people have in their entire collection.   www.la-colombe-dor.com

La Colombe d'Or

On the edge of St Paul de Vence is the legendary hotel La Columbe d'Or, a bastion of bohemian pride and abstract elegance that has defined the cutting edge of life on the Riviera since the 1920's.  A small hotel with 16 rooms and 10 suites, it was a favorite retreat for Picasso, Leger, Calder and  a plethora of distinguished artists who stayed here and communed with the original owners Paul Roux and his wife Baptistine.  Yves Montand lived across the street, and soon the international jet set of the 50's and 60's were  hanging in the tiny bar, including David Niven and Elizabeth Taylor.  Over the years it has hosted everyone from Mick Jagger to David Bowie. But its not about the celebrity. Its about the atmosphere. Paul and "Titine", as his wife was known, created an atmosphere of creative energy that shielded the outside world. The walls are adorned with incredible works of art, Calder mobiles adorn the stairway and the swimming pool, Picasso and Braque and Miro and Klee line the walls of the dining room. It is sumptuous, unpretentious, fabulous and a true joy to stay there.

The Devil Dog spent four nights there is a stunning 4 room suite overlooking the Boulle court, filling a good portion of the second floor.  The picture at top is La Columbe d'Or as seen from the street (our room on the second floor corner).  The picture just above is the back of the hotel taken from the swimming pool. See the open terrace on the third floor. Its a common area  sun room where you can sit and ruminate surrounded by magnificent art.

Now run by their grandson Francois Roux and his wife Danielle it continues to provide down home country charm and casual elegance with an atmosphere that literally breathes electricity. 

Below we see another view of the back of the hotel and notice the massive Calder mobile installed by the pool.  To say that we thought we had found a secret home away from care or causation is an understatement. La Columbe d'Or rates as one of the Devil Dogs all time great hotel experiences.  www.la-colombe-dor.com

St Paul de Vence

In the south of France,in the hillos above Cap d'Antibe, lies the ancient Roman walled village of St Paul de Vence, literally rising over medieval walls to crown a hilltop. Last year the Devil Dog spent an extraordinary 10 days in the south of France, and the first four were spent in this magical village at the legendary Hotel Le Columbe d'Or. St Paul de Vence has long been an artists colony, and today is a wildly popular tourist destination. Yet in spite of its rather busy modern existence it maintains an air of charm and elegent authenticity that makes it a special place, especially when you are staying there and the tourists have left at the end of the afternoon. Then it is a quaint little village with two steller hotels and an open lawn where the men gather and play Boulle. At the crown of the village is the bell tower of the church, whose peels are heard throughout the town at the top of the hour. 

The Devil Dog must thank Katherine Johnstone and the good people at Maison de la France for making arrangements that guided the Devil Dog on this sojourn to the Riviera. Join me for the next dozen or so columns as we relive that fabulous adventure.