The Churches of Troyes

The Devil Dog seems to keep coming back to Troyes as we go through our pictures fromour recent trip to France, not least of which is because Troyes has so many different captivating looks and attractions, not only the multiplicity of half timbered homes and buildings, but beautiful cathedrals  as well, three of whom are on display here.  Above is the stunning Basilica St. Urbain, just across from the Rue de la Republique.  Below is the singular one towered Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, just through the alleyway from our hotel, the beautifully restored Maison de Rhodes.

One of the great details on each cathedral are the gargoyles that adorn the outer structural walls, frequently doubling as waterspouts.  Below is a lovely cherubic gargoyle on the side of the Basillica St. Urbain.

Perhaps the most beautiful interiors of any of the churches was at the church of St Madeline, where a large stone arch crosses the pulpit, a relic of the 15th century separation of  monks and commoners that has been torn down in numerous other cathedrals from the same period.  The continued restoration of the town of Troyes is a tribute to the preservation of a different time by integrating the ancient architecture and buildings into the modern age while retaining the beauty of its initial grandeur. 

A Triple View of a Troyes Quartet

As you come out of the a street of Troyes and come into the main square at the center of town your eye is immediately drawn to a quartet of half timbered houses across the square, set next to each other like a column of soldiers. 

They bear a remarkable resemblance to the row of ancient homes in Bergen Norway, and indeed they both date from the 14th and 15th century, sway to the beat of gravity's slow moving forces and angular decay, are brightly colored...and the Devil Dog couldn't resist putting a tryptych of picture together of our favorite quartet of homes in Troyes.

The Cat Man of Troyes

So the Devil Dog is trundling out of the Magdeline Cathedral in Troyes when ambling down the street, just beyond the infamous Rue de Chat (Street of Cats, a narrow alley between half timbered homes where cats would hide in the rafters waiting for pigeons), is this gentleman from Croatia with a large cat wrapped around his neck like a living fur piece.  He babbled with the confidence we have seen often from the eccentric and extroverted about the cat being bred from a strain of Persian cats, how rare and exotic it was, and how he was from Croatia, without elludicating us as to how he ended up here in Troyes, where he is clearly a regular fixture.

The cat, throughout this exercise, lolled about his neck, adjusting its slumbering posture, and standing up at one point to stretch, but never leaving its position wrapped around his shoulders. We noticed at that point that his flannel shirt that served as a cat carrier was virtually shredded in places from the cats claws clinging to its perch.

The cat seemed happy enough, the unnamed man seemed thrilled to have an audience, we all took pictures and marveled at how content the cat seemed to be, before we wandered on to our next destination, leaving the Cat Man of Troyes talking to himself, as he went in search of the next clutch of visitors to stop and engage.

The Magic of Troyes

In a world of overhyped saturated tourist "destinations" it is a pleasure to arrive in a genuine historically preserved medieval town that retains its authenticity without being relegated to "Disneyland" status. Troyes (pronounced Twah) is such a place, a beautifully preserved town with numerous half timbered structrures dating from the 14th and 15th century, remarkably intact, restored and imbued with distinct character that is genuine and delightfully memorable. It reminded me of Stratford on Avon without the hordes of tourists.

Troyes was a crossroads town, set in the middle of the numerous grape growing villages that make up the Champagne region, but it gained its reputation as a textile center in the 14th century and acquired great wealth as a trading town. The old town is shaped like a champagne cork, and in spite of fires through the centuries has more intact half timbered medieval buildings than I have ever seen. 

We are staying in the Maison de Rhodes, a lovely inn with only 11 rooms that was once a home for the Knights Templer in the 15th century and has been restored to impeccable splendor. You feel as if you are living in an ancient home from 500 years ago (with the exception of the indoor plumbing and cable TV). The Devil Dog and his nimble partner in crime, Francois deLay du Pompideau, have been given adjoining third floor attic suites that come to resemble the boys dormitory at a splendid castle. We look out our window into the courtyard below. It is a slice of heaven. The feel of the place is remarkable.

The next day we take a full tour of the town, and are enthralled with the extent of its restoration. The Church of the Madeline in particular stands out for its amazing pulpit and the ornate stone carvings. 

The ancient half timbered houses become so ubiquitous that after several hours we almost... almost.... take them for granted. But it is amazing to be in a place that has not been restored to become a tourist attraction, but attracts tourists because it has been so beautifully preserved and continues the feel of a genuine town that has thrived for more than 600 years.